 Step 4:With the base prepped and ready, all the formers are aligned and put into order for assembly. I opted to use the plywood formers at the critical junction points (near handlebars, under seat, ends, etc) and used pink foam in between. There are still gaps in between, but we'll tackle those spaces later. |  Step 5:To adhere the formers to the base, I used Liquid Nails "FUZE IT" all-surface adhesive as it grabs fast, doesn't react the foam, and is fairly tough stuff. In case you glue the wrong the part down, this stuff can be cut up with a knife when cured (a few hours), so it's definitely not as solid as something like epoxy. Once the formers are setup, let them cure overnight to keep them from shifting. |  |
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 Step 13:This is a terrific, pro-grade product that is fairly forgiving. Here's my order of operations for the epoxy/fiberglass process:
1) The initial coat of epoxy is applied (slow cure variety) over the structure to permeate the fiberglass
2) Wait to Dry (usually overnight)
3) Another coat of epoxy is applied with 410 filler added - peanut butter consistency
4) Wait to Dry
5) Sand high spots and use more filler as necessary |  Step 14:The first coat of epoxy is painted down and the cloth is positioned over the top. Use a paint spatula to spread (not a brush) to smooth out the epoxy and distribute it more evenly. Once dry, I applied a second coat, this time mixed with West System 410 filler. Peanut Butter consistency is about right and this coat fills the weave of the cloth nicely. Once dry, the edges can be trimmed and ready for a light sanding - 80 grit. |  Step 15:Picked up some spare parts at the second hand store for this build. We picked up these office chairs for $5 and will use the stands as the base for the speederbike and corrugated plastic sleeve as engine parts. Additionally, I picked up a some computer cable bundling tubes and plumbing parts for cheap as well. |
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 Step 40:In order to get good adherence, the paint/primer on the bike and the adhered side of the PETG plastic sheet need a good sanding. In this case, I'm opting to leave on the protective blue plastic on the pretty side to keep it from getting dinged. |  Step 41:Once everything is sanded, 5-minute epoxy makes quick work to get a good bond started. There will be slight gaps between the bike and the plastic - corners, edges, etc. I'll come back with some West Systems slow-cure (very thinset) epoxy and pour it in the edges and tape them down to dry overnight.
This is creating a very nice, smooth and hard material that will hide any imperfections and create those sharp demarcations. |  Step 42:Keep in mind, the plastic is clear, so it's tough to not see through it to the sanded surface, but the plastic provides a nice, hard outer shell. |
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 Step 53:Now - the fun weathering process can begin! (This is my favorite part!)
As you've guessed by now, in order to create the paint chipping effect, we'll be removing the top layer of paint we just sprayed in order to reveal the silver paint below. Remember, these things fly at 200mph in the forest - wonder why there aren't more bugs splattered?
The key here is to let the brown paint set up just to where it's a bit tacky, but not full cured - perhaps 20-30 mins after painting. |  Step 54:Better paints can adhere through the Aqua Net and the effect is lost. So, here's what you'll need - a roll of clear packing tape and some heavy steel wool (to help add texture).
If you just lay the strip of tape down, you'll pull off a perfect rectangle of paint - definitely not the look we're going for here. It helps to wad the tape up and then pull it back apart to put some creases and wrinkles in it. You can also impress the steel wool into the tape to create textures. |  Step 55:You can also impress the steel wool into the tape to create textures. Your fingernail and any other tool also work to create many effects. In this case, less is more and it's easy to have too much fun and overdo it. But don't despair, you can always reshoot more topcoat color and peel again. |
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